Power Steering Pump Rebuild

From Celica GT-Four / Alltrac - ST165 ST185 and ST205

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Contents

Remove the pump

Remove the pump by totally undoing the two mounting bolts, remove the belt. Check to see if you can see where your leak is coming from as the next bit may cover the pump in fluid. Remove the large hose that is held on to the pump with a spring clip. Catch all the fluid in your mouth, or preferably (for your health) a tub of some sort - theres less than a litre. No follow the other large pipe upward until you find a joint in the hose where you can reach it - right up at the top of the bulkhead - undo that there and remove the pump the best way you can - it is a squeeze.

Identify your leak

Now you have the pump out you'll see where its leaking from - it'll be either a hose connection (may require a new hose or just an o-ring/clip) or one end of the pump shaft. Start by cleaning it up as best you can - this will be a delicate mission and requires good cleanliness. Check your bearing (waggle the shaft around - there may be play in the in-out direction but should not be in any other direction.

Rear Plate Removal

You'll notice the rear plate of the pump (opposite the pulley end) is held in by a circlip. Its fairly easy to get off if you clamp the pump in a vice (using one of the pivot bolt hole casting blocks), use a screwdriver at one of the ends of the clip to push the rear plate inwards and catch the tip of the clip. Once you've caught that quickly slip another smaller screwdriver into the gap and lever the clip out carefully. Now turn the pump over (onto your hand and over a pot to catch the fluids and bits) and tap the pulley until the rear plate comes out. With it will come a spring. Keep all parts in a safe box! Before you start - this is the order of the first 4 pieces - take care to catch them all!



Swash Plate Removal

Now you can use plier to gently pull out the black plate thats got holes in it. This exposes the rotor and its small vanes inside the main chamber. DONT LOSE THE SMALL VANES - they will drop out at this point, there should be 10 - pick them out and store them safely - you dont want to spend hours sifting the u-bends with a magnet - trust me!

Shaft and Rotor Removal

There is a tiny circlip holding the rotor/hub onto the shaft - it takes a tiny screwdriver or a razor blade to remove it. Removing this will allow you to pull the rotor/hub off and withdraw the shaft. NOTE WHICH WAY UP THE ROTOR IS, it is directional!!


Chamber Removal

To fully clean the pump you can remove the oval chamber. This sits on two pins in the body of the pump. Clean it, dont scratch the surface where the vanes touch. This is symmetrical so it doesnt really matter about its orientation but the 2 sets of holes need to be taken notice of and re-assembled correctly later. It sits on the pins in its most anti-clockwise position out of the two. You can check that by looking at the markings on it where it has been sat in the housing.

Seal repair

Assuming your bearing was not at fault we can do this fairly cheaply - the main seals can be purchased from an engineering firm cheaply - I'll get part numbers and sizes, prices up ASAP. If the bearing is at fault you'll need the Toyota repair kit - £25+VAT for a new bearing and seals.

You'll notice there are two seals (just o-rings!) on the swash plate and the rear plate outer edges - if you had a nice red pool in the gap at the back of the pump you'll be wanting these. If you had moisture all around the pulley you'll be wanting the main shaft seal.

Output Valve (Optional)

If you want to look at the output valve inside the pump where the main bolted hose attaches you can do this just by un-bolting the bit the hose bolts to. Inside you'll find a piston and a spring - this image shows the correct orientation if you accidentally fired it out across the garage/kitchen/workshop.

Reassemble

To reassemble just do the reverse of above lol. Make sure its UBER clean. You will need to get to a bearing/seal supplier to get the o-rings for the two back plates and the main shaft seal. The o-rings are easy and obvious to replace. The main seal on the pulley end can be pulled out and gently tap the replacement in with a flat piece of wood making sure you keep it level. You can lube it with PS fluid first to make it easier. Make sure, when you put it all back on the car, that you put fluid in it and turn the thing over by hand for a minute to get lube into those little plates, or it makes a nasty grindy noise - trust me, i found out the scary way!

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